Navigating Scams and Touts at Kolkata's New Market | India 🇮🇳 | Survival Guide

 

Kolkata’s New Market, officially known as Sir Stuart Hogg Market, is a labyrinth of sights, sounds, and scents that capture the vibrant essence of India. On this particular day, I set out to explore this iconic marketplace, ready for an adventure. What I didn’t expect, however, was the maze of challenges that awaited me, from touts insisting on showing me around to vendors trying their best to sell everything under the sun. Here’s how my day unfolded.

As I stepped out in search of the New Market, I found myself wandering into a bustling street market instead. Confused, I paused to ask someone, “Where is the New Market?” A kind stranger pointed me in the right direction, and soon enough, I found myself at the gates of what I’d later learn was both the Old Market and the New Market combined. The mix of history and modernity was palpable even before I stepped inside.

From the get-go, it was clear that this place was alive with energy. Crowded pathways teemed with people—locals, tourists, and shopkeepers—while stalls overflowed with colorful goods. From clothing and shoes to jewelry and spices, there seemed to be a store for everything. It was a kaleidoscope of commerce, culture, and chaos.

The First Encounter

Within moments of arriving, a man approached me, eager to “show me around.” He claimed to have worked in the market for 28 years, and his enthusiasm was hard to ignore. Despite my initial hesitations, I decided to follow him. After all, having a local guide might add a layer of insight to my exploration. However, I quickly realized that his motivation wasn’t purely altruistic—he was keen on steering me toward shops where he likely earned a commission.

As we walked, he introduced me to various sections of the market. “This is the old complex,” he said, pointing to a historic area filled with stalls selling spices, meats, and fish. “And this is the new complex,” he added, gesturing toward a more organized section with shops offering clothing, jewelry, and souvenirs. The contrast was fascinating: the old complex had a raw, unpolished charm, while the new complex felt slightly more modern, though no less chaotic.

The Push to Buy

Walking through the market, it became clear that almost everyone was eager to sell me something. One vendor waved intricately designed bangles in front of me, insisting they were “pure silver,” while another offered Kashmiri shawls with promises of “premium quality.” Despite my polite refusals, the persistence was relentless. “For your girlfriend?” one vendor asked, holding up a scarf. When I joked that I didn’t think she needed it, he responded with, “Then buy for her anyway!”

At one point, I was ushered toward a stall selling traditional Indian clothing. The fabrics were beautiful, but most were either too small or not what I was looking for. “Big size, sir? We have big size!” the shopkeeper assured me. Unfortunately, even the “big size” didn’t quite fit my needs.

Navigating the Touts

The man who had offered to guide me stayed by my side, insisting on pointing out “good deals.” While he was friendly and chatty, I couldn’t shake the feeling that he was more interested in earning a cut from my purchases than genuinely helping me. After a while, his constant presence became tiring. “It’s okay,” I told him, “I’ll walk around on my own.” He eventually relented, though not without some lingering persuasion.

Once free to roam, I began to truly appreciate the market. The colorful chaos was mesmerizing. Stalls selling everything from chickens to spices to handcrafted jewelry created a sensory overload. The smell of freshly cooked biryani wafted through the air, tempting me to stop for a plate. Nearby, a vendor skillfully prepared chapati with his bare hands, a sight that left me both impressed and slightly apprehensive.

The Cycle of Repetition

Despite its vastness, I quickly realized that the market—both old and new—was somewhat circular. After walking for what felt like ages, I found myself back at the same red building I had passed earlier. This pattern repeated a few times, and each time, a new tout or vendor would approach me, eager to make a sale.

One particularly persistent man tried to sell me a silver necklace, insisting it was “perfect for my girlfriend.” When I declined, he shifted his focus to scarves and bed sheets. It became clear that while the people were friendly, there was always an agenda behind their hospitality.

Lessons Learned

By the time I exited the market, I was both exhilarated and exhausted. The relentless push from vendors and touts had been overwhelming at times, but it was all part of the experience. Here are a few takeaways for anyone planning to visit Kolkata’s New Market:

Be Firm but Polite: Vendors and guides will approach you frequently. A polite but firm “no, thank you” can go a long way.

Take Your Time: The market is vast and full of treasures. Don’t rush. Explore at your own pace, and don’t feel pressured to buy anything you don’t need.

Beware of Scams: Some guides and vendors may try to overcharge or pressure you into purchases. Always negotiate and trust your instincts.

Enjoy the Chaos: Despite the challenges, the New Market is a cultural gem. Immerse yourself in the experience, and you’re sure to leave with memorable stories.

As I walked away from the market, dodging yet another persistent vendor, I couldn’t help but smile. Kolkata’s New Market had been a test of patience and savvy, but it was also a vibrant snapshot of Indian life. For all its chaos and charm, it’s a place that’s impossible to forget.